The biodynamic blackboard attracts a lot of attention at Cullen Wines. It sits above the coffee machine, its content changing from season to season as the garden moves from autumn to winter, through spring and summer and back again. Changing with season too is the winery’s biodynamic garden, supplier of much of head chef Iain Robertson’s plates where European technique meets an elegant understanding of classic and Japanese flavours. What’s so great about the Cullen wines paddock to plate approach is how visual of an experience it is – the biodynamic spiral garden between the chardonnay vines and the fruit-tree lined driveway is both a tranquil respite and an education, sign-posted as it is with a brief telling of winemaker Vanya Cullen’s biodynamic principals. Of course the full market garden is not open for inspection – this is a working restaurant and winery – but seeing more is as simple as investigating the components of your lunch plate. In early winter, expect beetroot, radish, kale and nettle. If you catch Jaimie out in the garden, stop him for more information: as the garden caretaker he knows the comings and goings. Proteins, though not sourced on site, are sustainable. Think line-caught fish, bi-catch, or local venison or Margaret River wagyu.