Grass tree
10.09.2024

This story has been written by Stuart Hicks, Wayne Wonitji Webb, Zac Webb and James Aronson. It appears in the September 2024 edition of the U.S. magazine, Natural History, and is shared here with the permission of the publisher and writers.

Although commonly called a grass tree, it is neither grass nor tree. Like all thirty or so arborescent species of Xanthorrhoea – and other kinds of Australian grass trees – balga contains no lignin, and has no wood or bark to define it as a tree in the conventional forester’s sense. Its sprouting head is comprised of long, needle-like leaves that resemble a thick clump of grass. Like grasses, balga is a monocot, yet it’s nothing like grass. It’s distantly related to the lily. The scientific name for this endemic plant to Western Australia is Xanthorrhoea preissii, named after the exploitive bio-collector, Johann August Ludwig Preiss (1811–1883), who in the nineteenth century assembled a collection of some 200,000 Australian plants, about 2,500species, to sell in England and mainland Europe.

Grass tree
Despite its name, the "grass tree" is neither grass nor tree; it's a distant relative of the lily. Photo: Jannet Serhan

In the first decade or two of a balga’s life, its grass like head is attached to the ground while the plant establishes its root system in a codependent underground relationship with mycorrhizal fungi to help it draw water and nutrients. Then, at the rate of a couple of centimeters a year, it begins to grow what appears to be a tree-like trunk, lifting its head higher and higher above the ground. The trunk is the caudex – the axis of the plant – encasing a core, which contains a fragile vascular system that connects roots to leaves. Each leaf, diamond-shaped in cross-section, is attached to the core by an individual blade-shaped stem. These stems are packed tightly together, radiating horizontally outward, glued together by a sweet-smelling red resin, or “gum,” which creates the protective caudex around the core.

Over time, each lower leaf dies, adding to the skirt that hangs below the head. When the skirt is burned, the fire resistant stems of the leaves remain as a solid protective case around the core. New leaves grow in a spiral from the crown, and every two or three years a dramatic flower spike emerges, rising two or more meters above the crown.

A balga can live more than 300 years and may exceed six meters in height, and some of Western Australia’s living balgas long predate the arrival of European settlers. Balga survive, indeed prosper, in landscapes and in bioregions that for millennia have been susceptible to periodic wildfires. The caudex confers on balga a high level of fire-resilience. The trunk is actually the fire-blackened remnant leaf stalks that have accumulated year after year, and which insulate the core.

This caudex, faintly reptilian in its crusty, patterned texture, seems to help assert balga as the denizen of a lost world.

Balga, the denzien of a lost world. Photo: Supplied

When fire strikes, the skirt burns intensely in a matter of mere seconds, ensuring the caudex is not subjected to prolonged flames. After a fire, the plant grows a new head of leaves and is likely to sprout a new flower spike to attract pollinators and reproduce. Damage to the core can cause the plant to develop multiple heads over time, each of which can form its own flower spike – some balga carry more than twenty heads.

Balga speciated over 24–35 million years, in biological isolation throughout the greater austral continent (Sahul) after it was separated from India and Antarctica. Balga was around at a time when Sahul was home to immense rain forests, long before the continent became dry and fire prone. This longevity has given rise to scientific speculation that balga adapted to quickly resprout not because of the ravages of fires – which came later – but because of vulnerability as a mouth-size meal for the giant marsupial herbivores that long ago died out.

The Margaret River, ridge
Balga was around at a time when Sahul was home to immense rain forests, long before the continent became dry and fire prone. Photo: Tim Campbell

For 60,000 years, Wadandi people have lived alongside the grass tree in coastal southwestern Australia. It’s they who conferred on it the name balga. The endemic range of Xanthorrhea preissii maps cross Wadandi Boodja. In Noongar, the term Boodja refers to traditional land, or “country.” But “Boodja” translates poorly into English because there’s no equivalent concept in English tradition. Boodja is a complex, cohesive, interconnected whole. All of Boodja is alive – not just its animals and plants, but every stone and river, the ocean, the soil, the sky.

Boodja is populated by the spirits of dead ancestors who return to inhabit and move within the timeless, living, rhythmic cycles of Boodja. These spirits help enforce accountabilities to protect and safeguard this precious place. Capable of revealing themselves and causing mayhem or worse, the spirits need to be reassured, satisfied – an integral part of vast Boodja, whose forms and rules are explained within the origin stories of Muditch Boongurang, the “Great Trembling,” and the creation of every part of Boodja.

Deep spiritual significance is imbued in Boodja – a totemic, intergenerational identity with every aspect of the natural world.

‘Boodja’ translates poorly into English because there’s no equivalent concept in English tradition. Boodja is a complex, cohesive, interconnected whole.

Wadandi people recognize balga as the most important of all plants. It features in nearly every aspect of their lore and life.

It plays a promintent role through every step in the traditional food-making process, for example: A sharp flint is fastened to the end of a spear with kangaroo sinew and an adhesive made from the tempered gum of balga. The resin is heated and mixed with charcoal and kangaroo faeces to form a powerful adhesive (“byrign” or “bigo”). When a roast is removed from the fire, it is carved with a ‘kodge,” a cutting device made from a stone fastened with balga gum to a wooden haft. A sweet drink is made by steeping the flowers of balga in water from a container that is waterproofed with balga gum. The sweet, white inner ends of balga leaves are chewed for sugar. The seeds are ground for flour. Gum from the flower heads can be used to make cakes. The pulped core of balga is judged to taste a little like pineapple or coconut. Balga’s dry skirt provides important shade and shelter for birds, lizards, and small marsupials, such as the tiny mardo, all sources of food. The leaf stems of a dead balga make ideal habitat for the prized Bardi grub, the tasty larvae of a moth, rich in essential minerals. Balga resin is used to dye plant material for weaving baskets and bags, and animal skins for ceremonial dress.

These particular flowers are a third party plant using the balga as a host. Photo: Supplied

Balga provides important medicines too. Its gum is chewed to alleviate diarrhea or constipation. Its pulp helps cure an upset stomach. The smoke of the burning transparent gum nodules from the flower stem treats sinusitis. At night, Wadandi sleep under a small shelter, or mia, constructed from bent sticks covered with the needle leaves of balga in a loose thatch – save only when flat sheets of paperbar are available at a campsite near swampy land.

It’s therefore scarcely surprising that balga is revered, with profound and lasting totemic significance to the Wadandi people. Traditionally, damage to a balga flower brings bad luck. For all that, though, the grass tree has been even more critical to the life of Wadandi people – for balga was the sole source from which they obtained the gift of fire.

No other vegetative artifact on Wadandi Boodja can ignite a fire, except the balga. However, balga’s flower spike is only capable of producing fire when it is older, it’s necessary to wait till the flowers are replaced by beak-shaped seedpods and the stem has hardened to a shiny, varnished appearance. So, a fire can only be lit at a certain time of year. Fortunately, different locations on Wadandi Boodja provided balga at different stages of flowering. 

The fire in a camp was kept burning day and night and it was transported to a new location inside the body of a natural insulator such as the woody cone of a banksia. An extinguished fire meant no heating or cooking – unless new fire was borrowed from others or a move was made to a location where balga’s firesticks could ignite a new fire. The time of year when balga flower spikes are capable of generating a spark coincides with the time when Wadandi people traditionally move through Boodja, setting patches of the country alight with drip-torches made from dry balga skirt-leaves. This cultural burning produces a slow moving, low heat along the ground. It makes it easier to walk through the bush by removing fallen branches and impediments to footfall, but the burn’s main aim is to regenerate the land.

During a cultural burn, women move ahead of the slow-moving fire, beating the balga’s skirts to ensure any resident creatures flee before the sudden conflagration that consumes each skirt.

Dunsborough mountain bike park
The spikey heads of the balga are frequently seen amongst the bush along the region’s biking and walking trails. Photo: Tim Campbell

Balga reigns at the transformative center of Wadandi occupancy of Boodja, as testified in the legend of man’s access to fire. Balga arouses us with its uncommon beauty – it provokes awe at the mysteries and inventiveness of nature. But it does more. Balga offers a beacon of hope, a totem for humanity. It teaches values for our time. It’s not just what balga does that is important, but also what it says. It speaks of nature not as a resource but as a source of succor and sanctuary.

Balga exhibits a self-sufficiency that exceeds any of the manifold applications mankind has put it to – or tried. In its shade and within its copious, vulnerable skirt lives an ark of creatures. Balga inspires us with its resilience in the face of change. It manifests an adaptability, survivorship, an authority that exceeds mankind’s still slender knowledge of it. Balga is able to survive fire, indeed prosper after it -and, remarkably, for 3,000 human generations, to be a sole source of life-giving fire. Resistant to the parochial cultural meanings we apply to it, balga deserves respect for its mysteries and for the things in nature that outlive us.

Take the time to sit and listen. Like the Balga, your kaartdijin – your knowledge – may only grow centimeters per year. But what you learn about yourself and others on that journey will build a connection to your place and help you finally understand where you sit on Boodja.

Wadandi elder Wayne Wonitji Webb. Photo: Supplied

For those who choose to listen, balga is a story-teller.

At one level, for example, scientists have found that cross sections of its caudex and core can be used to tell the history of the fire regimes that have affected an individual plant through its centuries-old life, to shed light on the different fire conditions before and after European arrival. At another, more metaphysical, level, balga tells the story of Homo sapiens as just one species, within a natural world that humankind impudently treats as its dominion. If humankind neglects those parts of nature it judges useless, while gathering and extracting the remainder into an industrial consumer-state, the planet’s biomass, bio– and eco-diversity are impoverished dramatically. If we can appreciate the majesty of balga’s existence regardless of how it might serve humankind’s economic machine, than balga truly serves us.

Kangaroo and Wildflowers Credit Sean Blocksidge
The Wadandi season of Kambarang is the birth season and is annually heralded by a burst of wildflowers through Wadandi Boodja. Photo: Sean Blockside

Wadandi people identify six seasons in the annual cycle of life. The season of Kambarang is the birth season. It’s annually heralded by a burst of wildflowers through Wadandi Boodja, and the long grass tree stems sparkle with creamy white star-like flowers. At first, these flowers appear only on the north side of the stem, facing the Sun. At that moment, in the birth season, balga is a compass – and, if we care to observe, vouchsafes us its wisdom.

In the words of one of us, Wadandi elder Wayne Wonitji Webb: “Take the time to sit and listen. Like the balga, your kaartdijin – your knowledge – may only grow centimeters per year. But what you learn about yourself and others on that journey will build a connection to your place and help you finally understand where you sit on Boodja.”

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