The rise of rosé: Cyndal Petty’s local hit list

Work has trained me to move quickly, pull wines apart and be ruthless.  It’s also made me unable to detach from tasting critically. The irony is, the more involved you are in the world of wine, the harder it becomes to just enjoy a glass. No analysis, no critique, just pure enjoyment. That’s where rosé comes in. 

Maybe it’s because, in the wine world, pink is the new orange – and I’m loving that fancy rosé is finally trending. Or maybe I’m just not looking for grandiosity. So, if it’s structured and complex, that’s a bonus – not a requirement.  

It could also be that Margaret River doesn’t have a single rosé style, it has many. There’s creativity in the rosé making process and no strict mould to fit into. Winemakers have freedom over colour, grape variety, sweetness, and vessel, allowing them to put their stamp on the final product. A personal statement like a fur coat or cowboy boots.  

It’s a labour of love and madness. The best rosés are fresh, expressive, dry, and so scrumptious they make you want to call in sick and take the day off. They’re effortlessly nonchalant yet somehow manage to over-deliver.  

They spark innocence in pink (until the winemakers start flexing their trophies). Rosé is my easy escape from overthinking wine, but in Margaret River, the competition is tight. Each year, winemakers battle for ‘the pink jacket’ – the region’s most coveted and slightly ridiculous prize. 

Since 2015, the Margaret River Wine Show has awarded not just a trophy to the winning rosé, but a custom pink jacket. Very sophisticated.

These days, the final wines in contention for Rosé of Show are judged right on the coast, overlooking the wild Indian Ocean at Gnarabup beach. This happens just before the ceremony kicks off and last year’s winner is officially knighted.

I caught up with McHenry Hohnen’s Jacopo Dalli Cani, who received his jacket at last year’s ceremony for his 2023 Chloé Rosé. He paints a vivid picture of the moment.

“It was a beautiful spring afternoon, ice-cold rosé flowing, and DJ Erik playing on the terrace. Every rosé winemaker on the planet wishes for their wine to be enjoyed in a place like Margaret River.”

Jacopo also shared how the pink jacket came to be. “It started when Julian Langworthy rocked the very first P. Johnson tailored pink jacket after winning a trophy for his rosé,” he explains. “He made a statement: pink wine is serious business!”  

What began as playful humour has now grown into a proud tradition. “Initially, it was some dodgy, poorly tailored jacket,” Jacopo explains. “Until Murray McHenry suggested winners get something more luxe. He generously offered to sponsor a fine pink jacket from P. Johnson for the winners past and present.” 

What began as playful humour has now grown into a proud tradition. “Initially, it was some dodgy, poorly tailored jacket,” Jacopo explains. “Until Murray McHenry suggested winners get something more luxe. He generously offered to sponsor a fine pink jacket from P. Johnson for the winners past and present.” 

This offering from Vasse Felix’s Idée Fixe features foot-stomped cherries, red berries, and lemon balm. This fizz has swept through WA hearts. Made in the traditional method, it’s chardonnay dominant, fresh and clean.

L.A.S. Vino winemaker Nick Peterkin is always up to something. Pushing boundaries, making great wine, challenging paradigms. Ripe stone fruit, crystal dust, green figs and tart rhubarb parfait. The epitome of fancy rosé.

With so many medals, it’s surprising that Deep Woods Estate’s 2024 rosé is still standing under the weight. Simply delicious. Cherry, dried strawberries, and toffee apple. The kind of wine that seems to disappear. 

A juicy, peachy-pink sangiovese bursting with mandarin, watermelon, rose petals, and spice. McHenry Hohnen’s Chloé rosé is dry, generous, and a little cheeky. The kind of wine that makes you grin mid-sip.

2024 Lenton Brae In Good Hands rosé is a juicy, peachy-pink sangiovese bursting with mandarin, watermelon, rose petals, and spice. Dry, generous, and a little cheeky. The kind of wine that makes you grin mid-sip.

Verging on a chilled red, Jo Perry is the local pet nat queen. Orange juice, red apple, strawberry tart, red snakes. Unsure if pet nat is your style? Start with Dormilona ‘Floppet’ Pétillant Naturel and start with the best.

South by South West’s rosé is floral, layered, and textural. Pressed jasmine, Meyer lemon, fresh basil, sweet peaches and pomegranate. Lots of character and a long finish. 

Fittingly named after a leaping ballerina NV Howard Park Jeté rosé is the perfect sunset sip. I enjoy the elegance and sophistication of this wine. One of my favourite bubbles out of WA. Tangerine, raspberries, lemon zest and blood orange.

With notes of rhubarb, watermelon, and mandarin oil, the 2024 Glenarty Road Wildlings pétillant naturel offers a textural, fun, salty, and raw experience, the perfect apéritif. Drink with Grandma.

Made from 100% pinot noir, 2024 Victory Point rosé screams elegance. White strawberry, pomegranate and nectarine salad. A silent achiever, it never disappoints.

Also, track down: Fraser Gallop Estate rosé, and Marq Wines Serious rosé.

Where to Buy: For the optimal experience, visit each winery’s cellar door, or a local, independent retailer such as Margaret River Regional Wine Market and Dunsborough Cellars Liquor Store.