Curated by Michael and Charlie from Husbands That Travel.
When Charlie Douty and Michael Kabourakis set up their Instagram page @husbands.thattravel in 2021, it was based more on their own vigour for travel than an exercise in advocacy.
But as their followers swelled in numbers to upwards of 40k people (now 138k), they realised that there was an urgent need for LGBT+ visibility in travel media.
Charlie and Michael travelled through the Margaret River Region and were overwhelmed with the welcoming response they had from accommodation providers and tour operators.
“In some places in rural Australia, we might not feel safe to hold hands in public, or one person might need to go and check into the accommodation while the other waits in the car,” says Charlie. “In the Margaret River Region, we never hesitated to be ourselves or felt anxious or nervous expressing our feelings.”
For many people, the freedom to be yourself in public is something taken for granted. Most travellers can kiss, hug or show affection to a loved one with ease. But for LGBTQ+ travellers, these are the rather unnerving but deeply real discussions that need to be had when choosing a travel destination.
To make LBGTQ+ travellers more visible, and to shine a light on their own positive experiences and the generous folks they have met along the way, the couple created their own website and have written an LGBTQ+ Welcoming Itinerary for people travelling to the Margaret River Region. Their advocacy is bold, brave, vulnerable – and absolutely necessary.
Read on for their recommendations, and we hope with Charlie and Michael’s guide you can feel the same sense of freedom here, as they did.
All photos courtesy of Michael and Charlie from Husbands That Travel.
Who would know that Scandinavian architecture surrounded by Western Australian bush would work so seamlessly. We highly recommend Bina Maya for guests travelling in groups. There’s a lot of room to spread out in this luxury setting, and our host Sarah made us feel very welcomed and comfortable. Sarah even added photos of us onto the Bina Maya Instagram account which we felt was a genuine act of inclusiveness.
This place is the perfect couple’s retreat. It’s a stunningly well-thought-out version of a tiny home, surrounded by vineyards, farmland and trees. Jo, our host, was incredibly understanding and keen to support and promote gay travellers publicly. She even invited Tourism Australia to include us as talent in a photo campaign which was a big statement. Another point of pride was the wine at their on-site organic winery Windows Estate – now one of our favourite wineries in Australia!
The vibe at the Margaret River Guest House was like a big warm hug. With the simple act of gathering everyone together, our host Lisa created a very homely feeling. The accommodation itself is very much quintessential Margaret River in vibe – with farmhouse wrap around verandas, architraves, and French windows on the homestead, and well-cared for gardens. It’s conveniently located walking distance to restaurants and cafes on Margaret River’s main street. Both of us felt like we were at our Nanna’s house it was so comfortable.
After reading an article about us in the ABC (where we were championing diversity in tourism), Kellie Tannock from Margaret River Gourmet Glamping invited us to stay at her Gourmet Glamping Tent retreat. She’s a smart, progressive and supportive ally, pushing the boundaries in both sustainable tourism and promoting diverse travellers. The glamping tents were a real treat with an antique bush bath, copper outdoor shower, and campfire all set up within a pleasing grassy expanse. Kellie’s knowledge on locally produced food is also a source of inspiration for any travelling foodies.
For LGBTQ+ travellers wanting to experience seclusion and privacy, Karridale Cottages is a lovely option. The cottages are located a bit off the beaten path between Margaret River and Augusta. They are eco-friendly, with outdoor baths and surrounded by bush. The accommodation is also well priced for those travelling on a budget and a great base for exploring the southern tip of the Cape, with places like Hamelin Bay and Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse just a short drive away.
Busselton, a popular seaside holiday destination, is a good place to start (in part due to the Melbourne, and soon-to-come Sydney, to Busselton Jetstar flights which might have you arriving here first). Michael and I recommend a morning stroll along the Busselton Jetty – which is a roughly 2km timber pile jetty that brings together local fishermen, families with kids, and marine enthusiasts. The jetty itself complements the setting of the bay which is all white sands and crystal-clear blue waters.
We then ventured a little inland, where Busselton is also blessed geographically with the majestic Ludlow Tuart forest. Michael and I challenged ourselves with a ziplining adventure at Forest Adventures South West where some of the 300-year-old trees grow up to 33m in height with girths of 10m!
For lunch, we recommend a picnic on the Busselton Foreshore (you can pick up supplies from Origins Market in Busselton’s CBD). You could equally grab a pint and a meal at Shelter Brewing Co. We didn’t make it here with our limited schedule, but our same-sex female friends dined there and loved it. The venue also takes in the gorgeous bay and views of the jetty.
We had dinner at Tonic By the Bay, which is LGBTQ+ owned. It’s a beautiful spot to finish the day and watch the sun go down with a cocktail.
We absolutely loved the bays around Dunsborough and highly recommend this part of the itinerary. Because the bay faces north, it’s often protected in southerly winds, which are frequent along the west coast during the summertime.
A beach walk along Bunker Bay was a highlight for us. Look out for whales along the Geographe Bay coastline – we were told that it’s a hot spot for humpback mothers and their calves from September to December.
For lunch, we’d suggest either Eagle Bay Brewing Co or Meelup Farmhouse. Eagle Bay Brewing you might know from their famous line of beers. The location has lots of room to spread out on their rustic rural property, and glimpses of the Indian Ocean.
Meelup Farmhouse has that very ‘on trend’ farm-to-table feel. It’s set on a hobby farm and has beautiful grazing plates and a good wine list. The sort of place where you’re whipping out your phone to share the moment on your socials.
In the late afternoon, we took in sunset at Meelup Beach (you could also try Castle Rock Bay which is just further east). The sun sets towards the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and over the headland and you might be lucky enough to spot kangaroos like we did!
Another option for the evening is to do a luxury cruise with South West Cruises if you’re travelling in the warmer months.
Like most mornings, Michael and I start our day with a walk. In Yallingup, the stretch of the Cape to Cape Track from Smiths Beach to Canal Rocks was one of our most memorable hikes. We were lucky to have a flawless blue-sky morning and found rock pools to swim in along the way.
For lunch around Yallingup, our favourite place was Swings and Roundabouts. There seems to be a bit of an Italian bent throughout the menu and in the interactions we had with the staff. If not Italian – the pizza definitely had a style all of its own, with the woodfired crust, thin base and a raft of simple and delicious toppings.
To fill the afternoon, Michael and I recommend a stop past Gabriel’s Chocolate. Their artful, innovative and downright delicious creations leave Cadbury in the dust (sorry Cadbury). And we 100% need to mention the chocolate chip cookies here. They were the best we’ve had in our life (huge statement but true). Make sure you ask for the cookies with the bigger chunks of chocolate!
We then checked out Yallingup Lagoon which was divine. This is also a great spot if you’re travelling with kids. The water is cool (as it is in much of the South West) but it indeed feels warmer in than out once you take the plunge!
Sunset we spent at Sugarloaf Rock. It’s remarkably rugged landscape and unsurprisingly very popular with photographers so pack the camera.
Between Yallingup and Margaret River, there is another gorgeous pocket called Wilyabrup which mustn’t be overlooked. We recommend a morning hike from Moses Rock carpark, heading north. The walk can indeed lead all the way to Quinninup Falls which is worth the trek in the wetter months, just be cautious of keeping to the path due to the rehabilitation efforts along the dunes. It is also a place of cultural significance to the Wadandi people, so it’s important to be very respectful of the area.
In this part of the region, lunch at craft brewery Beerfarm is a must. The setting of this place would be great in any weather. It’s pretty much what it says it is – a farm (Black Angus cattle) and craft beer, all located in a rustic old dairy shed serving excellent paddock to plate style food. Michael had the homemade mushroom gnocchi which had was sprinkled with hazelnuts, sage and pecorino and it was simply to die for. I was equally satisfied with my chicken wings.
In the afternoon, make time for a Windows Estate Winery Tour. This is hands-down one of the best winery tours we’ve ever done. It involves a decent walk through the property, tasting the wine, and learning about the organic processes from Estate owners Chris and Jo – who are incredibly generous with their knowledge.
In the evening, we suggest another sunset sundowner at either Injidup beach or Gracetown, wherever the conditions look best.
We strongly suggest starting your day in Margaret River with a mountain bike tour. Brookesy, from Margaret River Mountain Bike Tours, knows the trails that traverse Margaret River intimately. You wouldn’t be able to see these hidden secrets without him. But the banter with Brookesy while biking through the bush was also terrific. Everything from bike advice to life advice was covered. He felt like a very supportive ally on our travels.
Best place for lunch to follow the bike ride is the Margaret River Brewhouse. Make sure you order the squid salad. We’d heard that people travel the 3 hour distance from Perth for this salad and we won’t lie – both of us will be coming back for this dish too. It was light and full of vegies and crispy squid, and with the perfect dressing. We met Brewhouse owner Ilya, who was very welcoming too.
In the afternoon, grab a coffee at the White Elephant Beach Café in Gnarabup before it closes (you could also go here for breakfast if you’re building your own itinerary), then check out Redgate beach. There are striking granite boulders here and a nice little walk to get from the carpark to the beach cove where you can spot black cockatoos and lizards (but watch out for snakes too). It’s a popular beach with surfers if you want to have a go at catching a wave.
For dinner we recommend La Scarpetta, an Italian run and LGBTQ+ owned restaurant along Margaret River’s main street. It has a stand-out food and wine menu and feels special and secluded.
Considered more ‘off the beaten path’ in terms of the region’s townsites – Augusta really delivers with its natural beauty and rugged coastlines but calmer river inlets, and marine history.
If you’re driving from Margaret River, it makes sense to start your morning with a trip down Caves Road towards Hamelin Bay. You’ll pass through the spectacular Boranup Karri Forest which is returning to life after the bushfires a few years ago. It was uplifting to see that much of the dense forest was spared and that many of the burnt sections are speckled with green shoots again as it regenerates.
Park at Hamelin Bay carpark and relax in the untouched beach cove. The bay is great for a snorkel, as it’s abundant with animal life – including a family of sting rays.
If you’re looking for lunch around Augusta, try the Augusta Hotel for simple pub fare and a great view, or Glenarty Road Winery for top notch farm to table dining.
In the afternoon we recommend a tour at Jewel Cave. It’s Western Australia’s biggest show cave with three massive chambers and roots from the trees above that can be seen hanging next to the stalactites. It’s such an underground wonder.
After packing up to head home, visit the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. It’s the tallest lighthouse in mainland Australia and worth a visit, it looks incredible since the restoration in 2022. They also have an award-winning interpretive centre. The location is often referred to as ‘the last stop before Antarctica’ as it is the most south westerly point of Australia.
To finish we did another stretch of the Cape to Cape walk from the Augusta lighthouse heading north which felt remote, rugged, and much like the rest of our trip – revitalising.
